| The
steering column/wheel shrouds are screwed together and these were removed for
access. Two screws fix the lower edge of the fascia. The top has three clips and
a row of lugs. For
access to the diesel pump, we removed the two turbo pipes above it at the front
of the engine bay. Take care when refitting, they have been known to blow off
under turbo pressure - the pipe clips need to be securely fastened. The control
cable was fished back into the engine bay from the cab using a length of fine
rod. With
any system like this, it is essential the cable outer is firmly secured to allow
the inner sliding cable to operate. A 75 x 10mm bracket was made up from a
scrap 3mm dural alloy plate to fit under the pump control arm for the slave cable.
The outer cable was secured, using a 'P' clip and split rubber grip supplied.
To a second bracket we fastened the top bolt of the lower radiator fan. The inner
cable was attached using a tough nylon cable. After
testing for safe operation of the cable, the release mechanism and having set
the free play in the slave cable as explained in the instructions, all seemed
to work well. Our only worry - was there too much free play left in the slave
cable? Well - time to try it out and see if we needed to do any more work.
Everything was bolted back together - and we had a cuppa. In
summary, we made up two of our own brackets, soldered two connections for electrical
security, took our time, shot half a roll of film for the article and the job
took us 2.5 hours. Rechecking
all connections were safely made, start the engine, check all is well and road
test the vehicle. Once up to speed on a main road with light traffic, it seemed
all too easy to set the Cruise Control and 'let go' with my right foot. Any concern
we had over the 'free play' in the slave cable was soon dispelled. It quickly
became second nature to adjust speed using the accelerator pedal and trim the
control knob to suit. Fitting
the Eagle Cruise Control is well within the capability of most home mechanics.
If you can find the switched positive side of the brake light switch, you will
complete the job. One
safety hint I want to mention. Use a socket or nut spanner for any 'Jubilee' type
pipe clips you have to loosen or tighten. I know they are usually slotted and
will take a screw driver, but there is a risk of the blade slipping, usually into
your other hand. Steve
Anderson tells me they have a fitting service for customers who are not happy
to do it themselves. Charges vary from £45 for the Eagle Cruise Control
to £100 + extras + 35p per mile, calculated from Birmingham. For
them to fit this basic unit could more than double the cost. Steve is presently
offering a 10% discount for members of the Motor Caravanners' Club. Ensure you
have your membership card handy. Acknowledging
the limitation of this basic unit, there is no speed retention memory. I can tell
you it works very well. Speed is 'fine tuned' by careful use of your right foot
and the worn drive at the control box. On slight gradients the vehicle does not
gain or lose much speed. I have yet to learn its effects on longer - or steeper
hills! I
am in the habit of monitoring all fuel used, every visit to the diesel pump is
logged, so I'll report on my findings after the next few hundred miles or so. George
Collings, Technical editor with Motorcaravan Motorhome Monthly Magazine, is
to fit one of the electronic units from Conrad Anderson to his VW T4 2.41 diesel
powered Auto Sleeper Clubman GL and we will let you know how he gets on with both
fitting and running it. |